But this day the scenery from the train on route to Florence was lovely; green showing across the farms; white and yellow flowers blooming; a cherry tree here and there. Mountains rising on the horizon. Lambs grazing. I hope that I’ll get to tour Tuscany one day soon. I felt suddenly in need of the pastorale. Not today. I arrived in Firenze and followed the directions to the hotel received earlier. I was very glad it was daylight. Pretty seedy, and a bit scary. A man on a scooter (they are all mostly on scooters) directed me to The Centrale. It’s a large, old building. 
The hotel is on the second floor. The elevator is a one-person-thing. I’m not good at elevators, never mind one-person-things. So I schlepped my suitcase up the stone steps (very far up) to what I figured was the second floor. In Italy, however, there is the ground floor (zero) then primo, THEN seconda. I interject here that I am in damn good shape for an old lady – I was still breathing after the second steep flight! The room was nice; the folks were nice. I dropped my stuff, and headed out. 
I did ask the gal at the desk which way to go to avoid the scary stuff (I didn’t really put it that way) and so I turned toward the opposite direction and was face to face with the Duomo – the glorious cathedral. (What a great hotel!!) I have no idea how many miles I walked. Firenze is a great city for walking. It’s small but packed with ancient history, interrupted by the most expensive high fashion shops the world offers: 
Pucci, Gucci, Ferragamo, Armani, Gigli, Prada, and on and on. I visited Piazza Santa Maria Novella where the glorious church is being repaired. And Palazzo Vecchio which overlooks Piazza della Signoria. Every piazza is like a sculpture garden. 
A charming carousel stands near the archway in the Piazza della Repubblica. Walking along and suddenly a carousel! No, I’m sad to say, I didn’t ride it. When I couldn’t walk anymore I found a small place for supper. Then I walked some more. Lots and lots of teenagers strolling around, seemingly on tour with school personnel. Maybe it was spring break or the like in Italy. On Tuesday I walked early to the Uffizzi. I had purchased my ticket on-line so I would be sure to get in.
I think the most beautiful place I saw in Florence is the path along the Arno River from the Uffizzi to the Ponte Vecchio, the only medieval bridge to survive WW II bombings. The view from there, of the bridge, the buildings across the way – heartbreakingly beautiful. Glitzy shops line the bridge, but right before itI found a little, classic stationary shop called Signum. I bought a few gifts there. Had to drag myself away. I walked the Uffizzi for hours; how fabulous to see “live” the paintings I’ve admired in print for so long.
I returned to the hotel to change shoes, drop off purchases and grab my umbrella. It poured all afternoon. San Marco was closed; it being Tuesday. There is a conspiracy of Tuesdays in Italy. Suddenly a shop or museum or café will be closed because it’s Tuesday. ??? I hid out in a bar (Italy’s name for café) with espresso and panini, then grabbed my umbrella and continue to walk the city. For dinner I went to Giannino’s –
recommended by the host of the hotel. Very nice. One of the wait staff was much concerned that I was alone. I explained my trip and my birthday event. For this I received hugs and kisses on both cheeks and offers for me to stay and drink liquer. I declined with abundant thanks. (I’d had my wine with dinner; I don’t do more than that at one sitting.) Spirits lifted, I bought a berry tart (tiny one) at a Patisserie and took it back to the hotel. I hadn’t scratched the surface of Florence. But I had breathed it in. And how could I be sad to leave? I was going to Venice in the morning.
maybe we can go to Florence together some day?
ReplyDeleteYou brought me right back to a very special place....
and we'll go when San Marco is open- maybe a Wednesday??
Julie